Key takeaways
- Clean gutters at least twice a year, in late spring and late fall, and more often under large trees.
- Guards cut down on cleaning but do not end it.
- Downspouts should discharge well away from the foundation, especially on clay soil.
- Sagging, leaking seams, peeling fascia and stained siding are signs of failing gutters.
- Use a ladder only if you are comfortable on one. Two-story gutters are a job for a pro.
How often to clean gutters
For most homes in the area, plan on two cleanings a year: one in late spring after trees drop their seeds and flowers, and one in late fall after the leaves are down. Houses under large trees often need a third, or a second fall cleaning once the oaks finally let go.
Spring debris is easy to underestimate. Maple seeds, cottonwood fluff and sycamore bits mat together in the trough and hold water. In fall, wet leaves pack into downspout elbows and stop flow entirely.
A proper cleaning includes:
- Scooping debris out of the trough rather than flushing it down the downspouts
- Running a hose along each section to confirm water flows toward the outlet
- Checking that each downspout runs clear from top to bottom
- Looking for standing water, which points to a pitch problem
A small amount of shingle granules in the gutter is normal, especially on a newer roof. Large amounts, particularly after a hailstorm, are worth having a roofer look at.
Gutter guards and what to expect from them
Guards come in several styles: screens, perforated metal covers, fine mesh, and solid hoods that rely on water curling around a rounded edge. All of them try to let water in and keep leaves out.
What to expect:
- They reduce cleaning without ending it. Fine debris, seeds, pine needles and roof grit still get through or collect on top.
- Fit matters. A guard that is loosely attached or wrong for your roof pitch can cause overflow in heavy rain.
- Cleaning takes more effort when it is needed, because the guard has to come off.
- Some styles collect ice in winter.
Guards make the most sense on homes with heavy tree cover and gutters that are otherwise in good shape. Putting guards on sagging or undersized gutters only hides the problem. If your gutters need replacing anyway, that is a good time to look at gutters and guards together.
Downspouts and extensions
Clean gutters do little good if the downspouts dump water at the foundation. Much of the Dayton area has clay-heavy soil that absorbs water slowly. A downspout emptying beside the house can keep that soil saturated through a rainy season. The result can be damp basements, white mineral deposits on block walls and, over time, pressure on the foundation.
Simple fixes:
- Extensions that carry water out onto ground sloping away from the house
- Splash blocks set so water runs away from the wall, not back toward it
- Underground drain lines, which work well with proper slope and an outlet but can clog or crush if installed poorly
- Regrading soil and mulch beds that have settled toward the house over the years
Check extensions after mowing, landscaping and winter, since they get knocked loose or buried. If you have an underground line, run a hose into the downspout once a year and make sure water comes out the far end.
Signs your gutters are failing
Gutters wear out, especially on older homes where they may have been patched more than once. Look for:
- Sagging sections or gutters pulling away from the fascia, often from failed hangers or rotted wood behind them
- Leaking seams and corners, visible as drips or rust streaks
- Water spilling over the front in steady rain even when the gutter is clean, a sign of poor pitch or too few downspouts
- Peeling paint, stains or rot on fascia and soffit
- Washed-out mulch or dirt lines below the gutter
- Water in the basement after storms, on the same side as a troublesome downspout
A couple of loose hangers or a leaky corner are simple repairs. Widespread sagging, rot behind the gutter or repeated overflow usually means new gutters and possibly new fascia. To see how gutter problems connect to roof leaks and ice dams, read gutters, leaks and keeping water out.
Cleaning gutters safely
Ladder falls cause serious injuries every year, and gutter cleaning puts a lot of homeowners on ladders. If you clean your own gutters:
- Use a sturdy extension ladder on firm, level ground, with a standoff so it does not rest on the gutter
- Keep three points of contact and do not lean past the rails. Move the ladder instead.
- Stay off the roof
- Watch for overhead power lines, especially where the service line reaches the house
- Have someone at the base of the ladder
- Wear gloves, because old gutters have sharp edges and screws
Two-story gutters, sloped yards, or anything that requires stepping onto the roof are jobs for a pro. The same goes for winter: never climb an icy ladder or roof to knock ice out of gutters. If you would rather not climb at all, contact a roofer.
Frequently asked questions
Should gutters be cleaned before winter?
Yes. A late-fall cleaning after the leaves are down lets meltwater drain during winter thaws instead of freezing in a clogged trough. Gutters packed with wet leaves and ice get heavy and can pull away from the fascia.
Do gutter guards stop ice dams?
No. Ice dams form because heat escaping from the attic melts snow higher on the roof, and the water refreezes at the cold edge. Guards do not change that. Attic insulation, air sealing and ventilation do.
Is it better to repair old gutters or replace them?
Small problems like a loose hanger, a leaking end cap or a disconnected downspout are usually worth repairing. If gutters sag along long runs, leak at many seams, or the fascia behind them is rotting, replacement tends to make more sense.
4 min read.